Sree Punnakkal Bhagvathi Temple, Manikoth, Kasargod
Photo © Mohit Gupta, All Rights Reserved

Finally I made it happen. After a lot of deliberation I landed up in Calicut and took a train to Kasargod to watch a Theyyam performance. Though it turned out to be a much bigger affair than I expected but it has laid down a foundation for what looks like a long term relationship…

Theyyam or Theyyattam is a Hindu folk dance ritual of worship exclusive to Northern Malabar region. The word Theyyam derives from Sanskrit word Daivam which means God. The origin of this ritual is unknown, rather, a more apt way of putting it would be to say there’s no one theory that explains the birth of this folk art form. This century old tradition is probably an amalgamation of Brahminical religious system of worshiping deities with the already existing pre-Aryan non-Brahminical tribal system of spirit worship.

There are over four hundred different types of Theyyams which are performed in this region. Each one of them depicts a story ranging from various tales from the Hindu Pantheon to the deeds of local heroes and ancestors. The ritual dance is exclusively performed by male members of certain lower caste communities namely Vannan, Malayan, Velan, Mavilan, Pulayan and Koppalan. Most of these communities are indigenous tribes of Kerala and this tradition of folk dance has been kept alive by them. During the Theyyam season (which spans from November till April), these dancers transcend into Gods and the caste equation turns upside down, with Brahmins seeking blessings from these dancers who otherwise are (or were) considered untouchables.

It’s difficult to put this exhilarating experience into words. The dance is performed in the courtyard of small shrines or sacred grooves of the countryside called kavu. The chief dancer who propitiates the central deity of the shrine has to reside in aniyara (green room) and observe abstinence for a month or so before the performance. A dancer’s ascend to Godhood is gradual and starts from his “buying” Kodiyila (Banana leaf) from the kavu. Kodiyila consists of thiri (light), chikkipoo (rare flowers) and ari (boiled rice). First part of his performance is usually known as thottam or vellattam wherein he recites a particular ritual song describing the myths and legends of that particular deity. The ascend continues as makeup and face paint is applied and then as he walks on to arangu (stage). The metamorphosis is complete as he sees himself in the mirror and what follows is a high energy performance with drummers raising the tempo with each passing moment. He is soon seized by the Gods, possessed, performing kalasams (steps), circumambulating the kavu and pronouncing blessings…